Attic top-offs
Many Austin-area homes still have the original 4 to 6 inches of insulation, or less where it has settled, been disturbed by trades or damaged by pests. Blowing new loose fill over the existing layer is one of the most cost-effective energy upgrades a house can get.
Fiberglass or cellulose
Loose-fill fiberglass is light, does not settle much and does not absorb water. Cellulose is denser, contains recycled paper treated with fire retardant, and resists air movement a little better. Both are installed to a target depth and R-value with depth markers placed across the attic.
Air sealing first
Insulation slows heat; it does not stop air. Before blowing we can seal top-plate gaps, plumbing and wiring penetrations and the attic hatch, and install baffles at the eaves so soffit vents stay open.
Closed walls
Existing walls without insulation can be dense-packed through small holes drilled from the outside or inside, then patched. We check each wall cavity condition during the walk.
What the bid covers
- Attic access protection and walkway layout
- Eave baffles to keep soffit vents open
- Air sealing of penetrations and hatch, if scoped
- Loose-fill fiberglass or cellulose to target depth
- Depth markers and an attic insulation card
- Cleanup of the living space and access
Questions about blown-in insulation
Do you remove the old insulation first?
Usually not. If the existing layer is dry and clean, new material goes over it. Wet, moldy or pest-contaminated insulation should be removed first; that is quoted as its own line item.
How long does an attic take?
Most single-family attics are blown in a single day once the air sealing and baffles are complete.